Part of the Complete Cichlid Aquarium Guide
This guide focuses specifically on breeding Convict Cichlids. For a complete overview of the Cichlid family, including other popular species and general care principles, see our Complete Cichlid Care Guide.
Introduction
Convict Cichlids are so easy to breed that the real challenge isn’t getting them to spawn-it’s stopping them. Unlike more temperamental cichlids such as Discus or German Blue Rams, Convicts will breed reliably in a basic home setup with minimal coaxing. Both parents aggressively guard eggs and fry, resulting in survival rates that make this the perfect first cichlid breeding project for any aquarist ready to move beyond livebearers.
If you’ve bred guppies or platies and want to experience “true” cichlid parenting-complete with obsessive nest cleaning, fry herding, and intense territorial defense-Convict Cichlids deliver all of that with beginner-friendly success rates. This guide walks you through pair formation, spawning triggers, fry care, and the critical challenge: managing a population explosion of 100+ fry every few weeks.
Why Breed Convict Cichlids?
They’re easier than every other cichlid. While Angelfish, Discus, and German Blue Rams require strict water conditions and often eat their first several spawns, Convicts spawn readily and care for their offspring with minimal guidance. They tolerate a broad range of water parameters and don’t need special conditioning-though they respond to it.
Parental care is absolutely fascinating. Watching a breeding pair obsessively clean the spawning site, fan eggs to prevent fungus, and herd fry in a tight school over several weeks provides an education no book can match. The parents’ aggression and devotion make them compelling to observe and reinforce why cichlids are so popular among serious hobbyists.
The success rate is high. Even first-time breeders succeed with Convicts by the second or third spawn. Early spawns may be eaten-a normal learning phase-but subsequent clutches typically result in dozens of healthy fry.
You can sell or rehome fry. Once you’re breeding successfully, aquarium stores, local clubs, and online communities will happily take juveniles off your hands, either for store credit or as donations. This can offset costs and fund additional tanks.
It’s an ideal stepping stone. Convicts bridge the gap between livebearer breeding (which requires almost no parental behavior) and advanced cichlid projects. You’ll learn pair bonding, territorial behavior, and fry rearing in a forgiving species before tackling more demanding cichlids.
Pair Formation: The Foundation
The most reliable way to obtain a breeding pair is to purchase 6 juveniles (about 1-2 inches long) and allow them to pair up naturally as they mature. This “grow-out” method eliminates the guesswork and stress of purchasing an already-formed pair.
Watch for natural pairing. As juveniles mature over 4-8 weeks, you’ll notice two fish swimming consistently together, defending a specific area, and chasing other fish away from a favorite cave or corner. These are your breeding pair. The rest of the group can be moved to a separate tank or rehomed to make space.
Identifying males and females. Males are noticeably larger, with longer, more pointed dorsal and anal fins that extend past the tail. Females are smaller and more compact, with shorter, rounder fins. When sexually mature, females display a distinctive pinkish or orange blush on their belly-the most reliable field mark for determining sex. Males may show faint vertical bars, while females have 8 bold, dark bars along their body.
Why “proven pairs” are often a gamble. Fish stores sometimes sell “breeding pairs,” but relocation stress and unknown history mean the pair may not rebond. A male and female that spawned together in one tank might fight viciously once moved to new territory. The grow-out method avoids this entirely and costs no more than buying an already-formed pair.
Breeding Tank Setup
You don’t need anything fancy, but you do need space and structure.
Tank size. A 30-gallon breeder tank provides enough room for a pair and their fry while keeping aggression manageable. If you’re breeding in a community setup-not recommended-move to 40+ gallons with abundant hardscape to break lines of sight. Larger tanks reduce the pair’s ability to monopolize and defend the entire water column.
Substrate and décor. Use sand or fine gravel to allow the parents to move substrate around the spawning site. Provide multiple caves and spawning surfaces: overturned terracotta pots (the classic choice), flat pieces of slate, PVC pipes, or ceramic caves. Position these on the bottom at different locations so the pair can choose their preferred nest. Include plenty of rock piles and plants (real or artificial) to create resting areas away from the active nest.
Essential equipment. Filtration doesn’t need to be powerful-internal filters, sponge filters, or standard HOB filters all work well. The key is avoiding excessive flow that disturbs eggs or recently free-swimming fry. A heater to maintain 74-80°F is essential; 78-80°F encourages spawning. Temperature stability matters more than specific numbers.
Water changes without disturbing the nest. Many experienced breeders avoid vacuuming directly around the spawning site during active breeding, as siphoning can suck up eggs or wrigglers. Instead, perform water changes in other areas of the tank, or use a turkey baster to gently remove debris near the nest.
Breeding Behavior: Step-by-Step Timeline
Convict cichlid spawning follows a predictable sequence. Understanding each stage helps you know when to intervene (rarely) and when to leave the pair alone.
Week 1: Territory Claiming and Nest Preparation
Once settled in the breeding tank, the pair will select a spawning site-usually a cave, pot, or flat rock-and aggressively defend it from every other fish. You’ll see constant chasing and physical intimidation as they establish dominance. Both parents begin obsessively cleaning the chosen surface, swimming in tight circles over the spot, mouthing it repeatedly, and fanning with their fins to remove algae and debris. This behavior can last several days as they prepare the “nursery.”
Week 1-2: Spawning (Days 5-10)
The female positions herself against the cleaned surface and deposits a clutch of eggs-anywhere from 50 to 200, depending on her age and condition. She releases eggs in a thin line while the male immediately follows behind, passing over them to fertilize. The process takes several hours and may involve multiple passes. You may not witness it directly, but evidence is unmistakable: a dense cluster of adhesive, cream-colored eggs clinging to the pot interior, cave roof, or rock face.
Immediately after spawning, both parents intensify nest defense. They attack anything that approaches-including your hand during water changes. This aggression is not malice; it’s evolutionary programming protecting offspring. Respect the boundary and perform water changes carefully.
Week 2: Egg Care (Days 2-5 Post-Spawn)
For 3-5 days, both parents continuously fan the eggs with their pectoral fins, pushing water over the clutch to ensure oxygenation and prevent fungal growth. They also remove any white (unfertilized or fungused) eggs, picking them out with their mouths. Unfertilized eggs turn opaque white within 24-48 hours and are immediately removed by the parents. Fertilized eggs remain translucent and develop a tiny dark eye spot visible by day 3.
Don’t disturb the pair during this phase. Keep the tank quiet, avoid tapping on glass, and perform only essential, gentle water changes away from the nest.
Week 2-3: Hatching and Wriggler Stage (Days 5-10)
Eggs hatch into tiny larvae called “wrigglers”-pale, thread-like creatures barely visible without magnification. Wrigglers remain attached to the substrate or are moved by the parents to small pits dug in the sand. The parents continue to fan and protect them, removing any that die or become diseased.
Week 3-4: Free-Swimming Fry (Days 10-15)
After another 3-5 days of wiggling, the fry absorb their yolk sacs and become free-swimming. This is when you’ll first see dozens of tiny fish forming a tight cloud directly over the spawning site, constantly under the watchful eye of both parents. The fry are so small they’re barely visible, but they move as a unified school-a stunning sight that makes breeding worthwhile.
Week 4 Onward: Extended Parental Care (4-8 Weeks)
The parents herd the fry in a tight ball during the day, leading them to foraging areas where they can hunt for microscopic food. At night, the fry are herded back to the nest area for protection. This organized behavior continues for 4-6 weeks or longer. During this time, the fry grow visibly-reaching about half an inch by week 5.
By week 6-8, the parents’ interest in fry care diminishes, and they may begin preparing to spawn again. This is the signal to move the juveniles to a separate grow-out tank if you want to preserve them.
Managing Aggressive Parents
Expect extreme aggression. During breeding, Convict Cichlids transform into territorial defenders willing to attack anything-tank mates, your fingers, nets. This is not a sign of illness or stress; it’s normal parental behavior.
In a dedicated breeding tank, this aggression is contained and harmless. In a community setup, it becomes catastrophic. Tank mates will be harassed relentlessly, chased into corners, and often killed. Small fish have no refuge. Even armored catfish may be unable to escape persistent attacks.
Your options are limited: Move the breeding pair to a separate tank once they claim a territory, or remove all other fish before they spawn. Waiting until fry are free-swimming to move the pair risks losing the clutch-stress can trigger egg-eating behavior. Hardscape dividers and plants reduce (but don’t eliminate) conflict.
Accept the aggression. Don’t interpret it as temperament or poor conditions. It’s parental devotion. The same aggression that makes Convicts terrible community fish is exactly why their fry survive at such high rates. Both parents put everything into protecting their offspring, and that’s why you’ll succeed where other cichlid breeders struggle.
Fry Care and Growth
First foods matter. Once fry become free-swimming, they need tiny food to match their tiny mouths. The gold standard is newly hatched baby brine shrimp, which fry eagerly consume and which provides excellent nutrition for rapid growth. If you don’t have access to a brine shrimp hatchery, commercial powdered fry foods (labeled “First Bites” or similar) work well, as do finely crushed flake food.
Feeding schedule and frequency. Feed fry small amounts 3-4 times daily, only as much as they can consume in a few minutes. Overfeeding fouls the water and kills fry faster than starvation. Watch the fry’s bellies; they should look slightly rounded but not bloated.
Water quality is critical. Perform daily partial water changes of 20-25% to dilute growth-inhibiting hormones that accumulate in densely stocked tanks. High water quality more than offsets the effort-fry in clean, heavily changed tanks grow noticeably faster and are stronger.
Growth timeline. Well-fed fry in clean water reach about an inch within 2-3 months. At 6 weeks, they’re large enough to eat crushed flakes, small pellets, and larger live foods like microworms. By 8-12 weeks, they’re eating adult food and approaching juvenile size (1-1.5 inches).
When to separate fry from parents. Once fry reach about half an inch and have been with parents for 6-8 weeks, remove them to a separate grow-out tank. The parents will become less attentive and may begin preparing for another spawn. Leaving fry too long risks predation by the parents and slows growth as older fry compete for food.
Managing the Population Explosion
This is the part no one talks about until they’re drowning in hundreds of baby fish.
Spawning frequency. A healthy Convict pair can spawn every 4-6 weeks under good feeding and water quality. Each spawn produces 50-200 fry. Even conservative estimates mean 300+ juveniles per year. Without a plan, your 30-gallon breeding tank becomes an overstocked nightmare.
Realistic rehoming before you breed. Contact local aquarium stores, clubs, and online communities before your first spawn. Ask if they’ll accept healthy juveniles and on what terms. Many stores offer store credit (usually modest) for young, well-grown fish. Aquarium clubs often have swap meets or online groups where hobbyists trade or give away surplus fish. Plan your outlets before producing fry.
Grow-out tank strategy. Raise fry to 1-1.5 inches before rehoming. These juveniles are hardier, easier to ship, and more likely to survive in new homes. Set up a second 20-30 gallon tank specifically for growing out your second and third cohorts while parents spawn again.
Allow natural predation. In a heavily planted or decorated community tank, some fry naturally fall prey to other fish. Many breeders view this as population control. It’s a valid option if you’re comfortable with it.
Culling (thinning the herd). Some advanced breeders selectively remove weaker or deformed fry to prevent overstocking and give strong fry optimal growth conditions. This is a personal ethical decision, but it’s a reality of serious breeding.
Donate rather than sell. If profit isn’t your goal, local aquarium clubs or schools often welcome donations of healthy fry for display or educational purposes. Donating builds community connections and provides purpose for surplus fish.
Common Problems and Solutions
Pair eats the eggs. This is completely normal for first spawns. The parents are learning, and stress or uncertainty causes them to consume their own clutch as insurance against loss. Don’t panic. By the second or third spawn, eating behavior typically disappears as the pair gains confidence. If it persists after three spawns, the pair may have a compatibility issue or the tank may be too small or stressful.
One partner attacks the other. In rare cases, aggression between mates escalates to dangerous levels, especially in cramped tanks. If you see one fish pinned in a corner with torn fins, separate them immediately. Some pairs simply don’t work; try again with different individuals.
Fry disappearing in community tanks. If you set up a breeding pair in a community tank and fry vanish immediately after becoming free-swimming, other fish are eating them. Move the pair to a dedicated breeding tank, or accept that you can’t breed successfully in community conditions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do you actually breed Convict Cichlids?
A: Buy 6 juveniles and let them pair naturally, then move the pair to a 30-gallon tank with caves and good filtration. They’ll spawn on their own. Feed them well, keep water quality high, and they handle the rest.
Q: How many eggs do Convicts lay?
A: Typically 50-200 eggs per spawn, depending on the female’s age and condition. Younger females spawn fewer eggs; mature females lay more.
Q: How long do Convicts care for their fry?
A: Both parents actively guard and herd fry for 4-8 weeks, depending on conditions and whether another spawn is triggered. After 6-8 weeks, parental care drops off.
Q: Why did my Convicts eat their eggs?
A: First spawns are often eaten as the pair learns parenting behavior. This is normal and expected. Subsequent spawns have much higher success rates. If eating persists past the third spawn, reconsider the pair.
Q: How do I stop Convicts from breeding?
A: Separate the pair into different tanks, remove spawning caves, lower water temperature to 72°F, reduce feeding, or decrease water change frequency. These conditions don’t prevent breeding but reduce its likelihood.
Q: What do I do with all the fry?
A: Grow them to 1-1.5 inches and rehome through aquarium stores (for credit), local clubs, online hobbyist groups, or schools. Plan your outlets before spawning to avoid being overwhelmed.
Recommended Gear for Breeding Convicts
Best Breeding Tank
Why this works: This 36″L x 18″W x 12″H tank provides enough footprint for a pair to establish separate territories while keeping the tank manageable. The longer length (rather than tall) is ideal for bottom-spawning cichlids, and 30 gallons is the sweet spot-large enough to reduce aggression but small enough to maintain excellent water quality.
Price Range: $100-150
Best Spawning Caves
Why this works: Convicts spawn readily on terracotta surfaces. These unglazed clay pots are affordable, natural-looking, and easily customizable by breaking or stacking them. The cave opening size can be adjusted, and pots can be positioned on their side or upside-down to suit the pair’s preference. Convicts also readily spawn on flat pot lids used as spawning plates.
Price Range: $15-30
Best First Food for Fry
Hikari First Bites (Powdered Fry Food)
Why this works: If you’re not hatching live brine shrimp, First Bites is the standard choice for newly free-swimming cichlid fry. The powder size is precisely matched to fry mouth size, and the formula includes essential proteins and nutrients for rapid early growth. This removes the complexity of maintaining a brine shrimp hatchery while keeping fry healthy.
Price Range: $8-12
Related Guides
Other Cichlid Breeding Projects
Convict Cichlid Care Guide
General care requirements, tank mates, and identifying males from females-foundational knowledge before breeding.
African Cichlid Tank Setup
For when you’re ready to tackle more complex cichlid breeding projects requiring specific water parameters.
Cichlid Diet Guide
Conditioning the breeding pair and feeding fry with the right nutrition.
Complete Cichlid Care Guide
Comprehensive overview of the Cichlid family, general breeding strategies, and common health issues.
Final Thoughts
Convict Cichlids deliver on their promise: they’re the easiest cichlid to breed, their parental behavior is mesmerizing, and success is achievable even for first-time breeders. The real skill lies not in getting them to spawn-they’ll do that reliably-but in managing the resulting population explosion and matching fry production with realistic rehoming capacity.
Start by acquiring 6 juveniles and setting up a dedicated 30-gallon tank with caves and stable conditions. Watch the pair form, observe their spawning behavior, and prepare yourself for the moment you see dozens of tiny fry schooling under their parents’ protection. That experience alone makes Convict breeding worth the effort.
As your comfort grows, you can move on to more challenging cichlids-Rams, Angelfish, or Discus-knowing you’ve mastered the fundamentals in a forgiving species. But honestly, many aquarists keep breeding Convicts year after year, simply enjoying the reliable success and stunning parental behaviors these little fish provide.