Part of the Complete Cichlid Aquarium Guide
This guide focuses specifically on angelfish care. For a complete overview of the cichlid family, including other South American species and general cichlid principles, see our Complete Cichlid Aquarium Guide.
Quick Facts
AttributeDetailsCommon NamesFreshwater Angelfish, Silver Angelfish, Common AngelfishScientific NamePterophyllum scalareAdult Size4-6 inches in height (up to 10-11 inches with fins)Lifespan8-12 years (up to 15 years in optimal conditions)Care LevelIntermediateTemperamentPeaceful (semi-aggressive during breeding)DietOmnivore (45% protein minimum)Minimum Tank Size20 gallons tallIdeal Tank Size55+ gallons for pairs or communitiesTemperature78-84°F (26-29°C)pH Range6.5-7.5Water Hardness3-8 dKH (soft to moderately hard)Breeding DifficultyModerateNative RangeAmazon Basin (Brazil, Peru, Colombia)
Video Overview
[Embed high-quality YouTube video showing angelfish in planted tank setup – approximately 5+ minutes demonstrating natural behavior, tank setup, feeding, and breeding]
Introduction
Angelfish represent some of the most visually striking cichlids available to home aquarists. Their tall, laterally compressed bodies and flowing fins create an almost ethereal elegance that captivates anyone watching them glide through a planted tank. Unlike their aggressive African cichlid cousins, angelfish are peaceful community fish that actually thrive in heavily planted setups-making them ideal for intermediate aquarists seeking both beauty and manageable care requirements.
What sets angelfish apart from other South American cichlids like Oscar or discus is their unique vertical body shape and their compatibility with planted tanks. While German Blue Rams prefer small spaces and oscars need vast tanks, angelfish occupy the sweet spot: they demand meaningful tank size but excel in medium-to-large planted community aquariums. They’re intelligent enough to develop personality, adaptable enough to forgive minor mistakes, yet challenging enough to reward dedicated keepers with successful breeding.
This guide covers everything from the critical tank sizing considerations that many beginners get wrong, to the nuances of breeding pairs and raising fry. Whether you’re planning your first angelfish community or attempting your third spawn, you’ll find specific, actionable information based on what actually works in established tanks.
Appearance & Physical Traits
Angelfish are instantly recognizable by their distinctive body shape. The body is compressed laterally (side-to-side), creating a tall, almost diamond-like silhouette when viewed from the front. This vertical orientation means they need height in their tanks-a requirement we’ll revisit throughout this guide.
The most striking feature is the flowing fins. The dorsal and anal fins extend gracefully along the body’s length, while the pelvic fins (often called “feelers”) are delicate appendages the fish use for sensing their environment. These elaborate fins require smooth tank décor and gentle water flow to prevent tears and fin rot, which distinguishes angelfish from hardier cichlids that can tolerate more turbulent conditions.
Angelfish come in numerous color morphs bred over decades in captivity. The wild-type silver features dark vertical stripes on a silvery background-the classic look. But you’ll also find marble (patchwork of black, white, and gold), koi (orange and black), black (nearly solid dark coloration), gold, chocolate, platinum, and even albino varieties. Each color morph is equally hardy; choice is purely aesthetic preference.
Sexual dimorphism becomes apparent only in mature fish. Males develop a pronounced nuchal hump above their eyes and generally grow larger-sometimes up to a third bigger than females. Their breeding tubes are thin and pointed, while females develop thicker, more rounded ovipositors. However, these differences only become visible when fish are sexually mature and ready to spawn, so buying juveniles and allowing pairs to form naturally is far more reliable than attempting to sex fish at the store.
Creating the Perfect Environment
Angelfish are South American forest fish, which fundamentally shapes their environmental needs. In the wild, they navigate narrow spaces between vegetation in the Amazon Basin-a reality that directly influences tank setup.
Why Tall Tanks Are Essential
This is the single most important point about angelfish husbandry: they must have vertical space. Their tall bodies are poorly adapted for shallow tanks regardless of water volume. A 75-gallon breeder tank that’s only 12 inches tall will stress angelfish more than a 55-gallon tall aquarium at 20 inches high. Insufficient height causes stunted growth, fin deformation, chronic stress, and reduced lifespan.
The minimum height is 20 inches, but 22-24 inches is ideal. A 55-gallon tall aquarium (48″ long × 13″ wide × 20″ tall) is often considered the sweet spot for angelfish communities. If you’re planning to keep multiple angels or breed, 75-gallon tall setups provide comfortable space without excessive height requirements.
Planted Tank Setup
Unlike African cichlids that destroy plants, angelfish are gentle with vegetation. A densely planted tank actually reduces stress and territorial aggression while providing ideal spawning surfaces. Position plants vertically to complement their body shape-tall Amazon swords in the background, smaller crypts in the mid-ground, and fine-leafed plants like chain sword as foreground carpeting.
Java Fern and Anubias are excellent choices because they attach naturally to driftwood and rocks rather than requiring substrate rooting. Water Sprite provides delicate, feathery foliage. Most importantly, leave open mid-water swimming space-angelfish need clear lanes to navigate the tank freely. A good rule is dense vegetation on the sides and back, with an open center third for natural movement.
Substrate & Driftwood
Use fine sand or specialized planted substrates rather than large gravel. Angelfish prefer foraging through smooth, fine-grained materials that don’t snag their delicate fins. Layer substrate 1-2 inches deep, and include driftwood for both aesthetics and function.
Driftwood releases tannins-organic compounds that naturally acidify water and create the blackwater environment of their native habitat. Tannins reduce stress, prevent fungal infections, and create a naturalistic aesthetic. If you prefer crystalline water, simply replace a portion during water changes rather than removing tannin-producing wood entirely.
Lighting & Water Flow
Angelfish are forest fish adapted to filtered, dappled light. They don’t need bright illumination-8-12 hours of moderate LED lighting is ideal. Excessive brightness increases algae growth and can stress fish. Use an automated timer to maintain consistent day/night cycles, which is crucial for breeding readiness.
Water flow should be gentle. Angelfish don’t appreciate strong currents that buffet their delicate fins. Canister filters positioned to create gentle circulation work perfectly; avoid powerheads directly aimed at the tank center. If you use a hang-on-back filter, position the outflow along the back to create gradual current rather than direct blast.
Essential Care Requirements
Tank Size & Stocking
The minimum viable tank is 20 gallons tall for a single adult, but this barely meets survival standards. For better quality of life, a single angelfish should have 30 gallons. For communities or breeding pairs, step up to 55 gallons minimum. Each additional angelfish adds 10 gallons-so three fish need roughly 55 gallons, four fish need 65 gallons, and so forth.
Height matters more than footprint. A tall 55-gallon is vastly superior to a shallow 75-gallon for angelfish. When planning stocking, remember that angelfish are cichlids with some territoriality, especially during breeding. Overcrowding creates stress and aggression.
Water Parameters
Angelfish evolved in soft, acidic Amazon water and perform best when you replicate these conditions, though captive-bred fish are more adaptable than wild-caught specimens.
Temperature: 78-84°F is optimal. This range supports their metabolism, immune function, and reproductive readiness. Consistency matters more than hitting an exact temperature-one-to-two-degree fluctuations are fine, but wild swings stress fish. A quality thermostatic heater (roughly 5 watts per gallon of tank volume) maintains stability.
pH & Hardness: Ideal pH is 6.5-7.5, with water hardness between 3-8 dKH. Most tap water is harder than angelfish prefer, but captive-bred fish tolerate 6.0-8.0 pH without issue. If breeding, aim for the lower end of the range.
Filtration & Water Quality: Angelfish are not as demanding as discus regarding water quality, but they’re not hardy like oscars either. They benefit from moderate bioload and steady nitrification. A canister filter rated for 10 times the tank volume per hour provides excellent mechanical and biological filtration. Perform 25-30 percent water changes weekly to maintain consistent parameters and remove accumulated waste.
Diet & Feeding
Angelfish are omnivores requiring 45 percent protein minimum. A varied diet prevents boredom and nutritional deficiency. Base diet should be quality cichlid pellets-specifically formulated foods with appropriate protein ratios. Supplement with frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, or other frozen foods 2-3 times weekly.
Feed juveniles (0-6 months) three to four times daily in small portions; they require high protein and frequent meals for growth. Adults need once or twice daily feeding. A useful feeding strategy: skip one or two feeding days per week. This improves digestive health, reduces ammonia production, and mirrors natural feeding patterns where food isn’t always available.
The proper portion is what angelfish consume in 2-3 minutes. Consistent leftover food indicates overfeeding and should prompt portion reduction. Healthy angelfish display mild interest in food even when satiated-they’re not perpetually starving creatures like some fish species.
Behavior & Personality
Angelfish are active mid-water swimmers with distinct personalities. Juveniles form loose schools, but as they mature, they become more solitary or pair off. They’re curious about their environment and quickly learn feeding routines-many become hand-feeders if conditioned from young.
Compared to other South American cichlids, angelfish are remarkably peaceful. German Blue Rams are comparable in aggression level but demand smaller spaces. Discus are more sensitive to environmental changes. Oscars are far more destructive and aggressive. Angelfish occupy the middle ground: peaceful with appropriate tank mates, but with enough personality to make them interesting.
Temperament shifts dramatically during breeding. A peaceful pair becomes territorial and intolerant of tank mates near their eggs or fry. This territorial behavior is adaptive-protecting offspring is a cichlid’s primary concern. Once fry are free-swimming or removed, behavior returns to baseline peacefulness.
Tank Mate Compatibility
The key to successful angelfish communities is choosing compatible species and providing adequate space and hiding spots.
Excellent Tank Mates:
- Cardinal Tetras (20+ fish schools) – Larger than neons, beautiful in large schools, safe from adult angels
- Rummy-Nose Tetras – Similar to cardinals in safety and visual appeal
- Corydoras Catfish – Bottom dwellers that don’t compete for space or food; angelfish generally ignore them
- Bristlenose Plecos – Peaceful, nocturnal algae eaters that occupy different tank zones
- Kuhli Loaches – Small, gentle, occupy substrate levels
- Hatchetfish – Small tetras that occupy upper water column
Tank Mates Requiring Caution:
- Neon Tetras – This is the classic mistake. While juveniles can coexist, adult angelfish frequently eat neon tetras as they grow. If you want neons, add them first so angels grow up with them as community members, maintain very dense vegetation, and keep angels well-fed to reduce predatory drive. Better alternatives exist.
- German Blue Rams – Compatible in larger tanks (55+), but may compete for territory
- Small Shrimp – Larger shrimp species are fine, but tiny cherries may be considered snacks
Species to Avoid:
- Aggressive cichlids (large oscars, african cichlids)
- Fin-nippers (tiger barbs, some tetras)
- Fish requiring cooler temperatures
- Bottom-dwelling plecos (like commons) that grow enormous and compete for space
A good community example for a 75-gallon: 4 angelfish, 25 cardinal tetras, 6 corydoras catfish, and 2 bristlenose plecos. Each species occupies distinct space and follows its own feeding schedule.
Common Health Issues
The three most common health problems in angelfish are ich, velvet, and fin rot-most of which arise from poor water quality or stress.
Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis): White spots appear on body and fins. This parasite thrives in poor conditions. Prevention through 25-30 percent weekly water changes and stable temperatures is far easier than treatment. If ich appears, raise temperature to 82-84°F (speeds parasite lifecycle), perform larger water changes, and treat with appropriate ich medication if necessary.
Velvet (Oodinium pilularis): A parasitic dinoflagellate causing gold-dust appearance and rapid gill movement. Velvet is serious and progresses quickly. Treatment requires antifungal or antiparasitic medications specifically labeled for velvet. Prevention through quarantine of new fish for 2-3 weeks prevents introduction to established tanks.
Fin Rot: Decaying fin edges caused by bacterial infection, usually secondary to poor water quality or fin damage from rough décor. Prevent by maintaining gentle flow, smooth substrate, and plants without sharp edges. Treat with clean water, partial water changes, and mild salt (if appropriate for tank mates) or antibacterial treatments.
Always quarantine new fish for 2-3 weeks before adding them to established tanks. This prevents disease introduction and allows observation of health.
Breeding Angelfish
Breeding angelfish is moderately difficult but highly rewarding. Success requires understanding their spawning process and common failure points.
Pair Formation & Triggers
Angelfish form breeding pairs naturally when kept in groups. Start with 6 juveniles and allow pairs to form on their own-this is far more reliable than buying “pairs” from stores. You’ll recognize forming pairs by their increased proximity and synchronized movement.
Spawning is triggered by several factors: rising temperature (a 2-3°F increase mimicking seasonal changes), increased food quality (high-protein diet for 4-6 weeks), and clean water. Many aquarists trigger spawning with large water changes and increased feeding frequency.
The Spawning Process
Pairs select a vertical spawning surface-ideally a broad-leafed plant, slate tile, or tank glass. The female lays eggs in neat rows while the male fertilizes them. This process takes 1-2 hours. Eggs hatch in 24-48 hours, and fry become free-swimming in 4-5 days.
Angelfish are protective parents. They fan eggs to maintain oxygen, remove unfertilized eggs, and defend fry from tank mates. However, first-time pairs frequently eat their eggs-this is normal and frustrating but improves with experience. Second or third spawns usually succeed as the pair learns appropriate parental behavior.
Fry Care
Once free-swimming, fry need infusoria or specialized fry foods for the first week. Liquid fry food works well initially. After one week, newly hatched brine shrimp can supplement infusoria. Fry grow quickly when fed frequently (4-5 times daily) and raised in clean water with frequent partial changes.
Remove fry to a separate grow-out tank once they’re swimming independently and the pair is aggressive in defense. A 20-gallon tank works for 50-100 fry initially.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What size tank do I need for angelfish?
A: Minimum 20 gallons tall for a single adult, but 55+ gallons is ideal for pairs or communities. The critical dimension is height (20+ inches), not just volume. A tall 55-gallon beats a shallow 75-gallon every time for angelfish comfort.
Q: Do angelfish need a heater?
A: Yes, heaters are essential. Angelfish require stable 78-84°F temperatures. Room temperature fluctuations stress fish and compromise immunity. Use a thermostat-controlled heater sized at approximately 5 watts per gallon.
Q: How often should I feed angelfish?
A: Juveniles need 3-4 times daily. Adults thrive on once or twice daily feeding. Many keepers skip one feeding day per week to improve digestive health. Feed amounts they consume in 2-3 minutes, and skip feeding days if uneaten food accumulates.
Q: Can I keep angelfish with neon tetras?
A: Not reliably. Adult angelfish frequently eat neon tetras despite successful coexistence in juveniles. Better alternatives include Cardinal Tetras, Rummy-Nose Tetras, or Black Neon Tetras, which grow large enough to avoid predation.
Q: How do I tell male angelfish from female?
A: In mature, sexually active fish, males develop a pointed breeding tube and nuchal hump above the eyes. Females have blunt ovipositors and smoother head profiles. Accurate sexing is only possible in mature fish, so buy juveniles and allow pairs to form naturally for breeding purposes.
Q: Why are my angelfish eating their eggs?
A: First spawns commonly result in egg-eating due to stress, poor water quality, inadequate conditioning, or inexperienced parental behavior. This improves dramatically by the second or third spawn. Enhance conditioning with high-protein foods, maintain pristine water quality, and minimize disturbances during incubation. Accepting a learning curve is part of successful angelfish breeding.
Recommended Gear for Angelfish
Best Tank
Aqueon 55-Gallon Tall Aquarium (Standard Glass)
The 48″ × 13″ × 20″ dimensions are virtually perfect for angelfish. This specific dimension combination provides ample vertical space (critical for their body shape), adequate length for schooling tetras, and manageable depth. Standard glass is durable and affordable. The tall format specifically accommodates angelfish better than any other readily available tank size.
Why it works: Tall dimensions prevent stunting and fin deformation; length accommodates community fish; established dimensions make finding custom lids and equipment straightforward.
Price Range: $150-250
Best Filter
Fluval 407 Canister Filter
This mid-sized canister filter handles 55-100 gallon tanks effectively with gentle flow that won’t blast delicate angelfish fins. It provides excellent mechanical and biological filtration without excessive water movement. The modular basket system allows customization of filter media for planted tanks (using sponge and biological media rather than activated carbon).
Why it works: Canister filters create gentle, even water circulation superior to hang-on-back models for angelfish; 407 handles 55-gallon bioload comfortably; quiet operation doesn’t stress fish; easy maintenance with valve shutoff.
Price Range: $120-160
Best Food
Hikari Vibra Bites Cichlid Formula (primary staple) + Hikari Bio-Pure Frozen Bloodworms (supplement)
The Vibra Bites formula contains 42-43% crude protein-ideal for omnivorous cichlids. Pellets are small and slow-sinking, accommodating mid-water feeding behavior. This should be the primary daily food.
Supplement with Bio-Pure frozen bloodworms 2-3 times weekly. These are treated to prevent parasite transmission (safer than untreated frozen foods) and serve as conditioning food essential for pre-breeding pairs.
Why it works: Appropriate protein ratio matches angelfish nutritional needs; established brand with quality assurance; rotation between pellets and frozen foods prevents boredom; combination supports growth and breeding.
Price Range: Pellets $8-12 per container; frozen bloodworms $6-10 per 3.5 oz cube
Related Guides
More from the Cichlid Family
German Blue Ram Care – Smaller South American cichlid that works well as angelfish community tank mate; requires more acidic water.
Oscar Fish Setup – Large, aggressive cousin of angelfish; requires very different setup and tank mate considerations.
Convict Cichlid Breeding – Another South American cichlid with fascinating breeding behavior; hardier than angelfish but more aggressive.
Cichlid Setup & Care Resources
Complete Cichlid Aquarium Guide – Comprehensive overview of cichlid family, water chemistry, and general care principles applicable to all South American species.
Cichlid Diet & Feeding Guide – Detailed nutrition information covering protein requirements, food variety, and conditioning strategies for multiple cichlid species.
Cichlid Breeding Guide – Advanced breeding techniques covering pair formation, spawning triggers, fry care, and troubleshooting common breeding failures.
Final Thoughts
Angelfish reward intermediate aquarists willing to invest in proper setup and consistent care. Their elegant appearance, manageable territorial behavior, and compatibility with planted communities make them standout choices in the cichlid world. The breeding possibilities add another layer of fascination-watching a pair successfully raise their first batch of fry is genuinely thrilling.
Success begins with respecting their vertical space requirements. A tall 55-gallon isn’t a luxury-it’s a necessity. Pair this with consistent water quality, varied nutrition, and appropriate tank mates, and you’ll have thriving, interactive fish that develop distinct personalities. The first few spawns may end in egg-eating, but don’t be discouraged. By the third spawn, most pairs figure it out. That moment when you see dozens of tiny fry drifting freely, protected by attentive parents, makes every bit of preparation worthwhile.
Start with a tall aquarium, invest in a quality filter and heater, choose compatible tank mates carefully, and enjoy one of the most rewarding cichlids available to home aquarists.